Serial Killa wrote:
I like this
Very nice! Well done!
We need to catch up some time.
Heya Brendan, a catchup sounds good. I'll let you know when I'm next in Sydney and free!
In the final month of my first year of ownership, there has been lots of things going on with the car as of late (read expensive, time consuming and FUN!).
I have now commenced the first round of power modifications, now that I have feel I have a fair base to modify from and have increased the performance on both handling and braking front. In addition, I have increased longevity with the addition of a Rocker Arm Stopper (RAS) kit and enlarged and baffled sump to avoid engine starvation. The first round of power modifications consist of the usual ‘boost up’ mods of FMIC, fuel pump and Electronic Boost Controller (EBC).
So this arrived, a Greddy/Trust tube and fin LS Spec FMIC kit...
RIP foggies!!!
Decided against running a blow-off valve on this build so I needed to find something to bung the intercooler intake pipe. An umbella handle of all things was deemed the best fit!
I painted the intercooler piping satin black to avoid unwanted attention...
At the same time I sanded back the original battery tray (it was looking beyond its
best) and sprayed/cleared it...
Before...
After...
Front bumper refit minus OEM driving lights BOO!!! So I meshed the empty space to better hide the intercooler piping.
I figured since the battery tray was to taken up smack bang in the middle by the intake intercooler piping that I relocate my battery to the boot. There are a number of reasons for doing this:
- Remove a heavy weight from high up in the very nose of the vehicle
- Better weight distribution
- I can now run a full sized battery with better cold crank capabilities
When relocating the battery there are a number of things to consider. The first, what
size cabling? I ran 2 gauge cabling, I did so as there is no large sound system and other than the starter motor, no huge electrical draw. The reason for the large cabling is also to avoid unnecessary resistance and reduce voltage drop over the greater distance.
Wiring run in a protecting ‘condom’ to avoid damage from debris on the underside of the vehicle..
The next step where to run the cabling, either through the firewall and cabin like most do with big sound systems OR through the engine bay and under the vehicle along the chassis rail tucked up nice and high? I chose the latter as I don’t like big electrical fires should the wires insulation ever be compromised. Which brings me to my next point, I went in search of a 150AMP circuit breaker to avoid being stuck on the side of the road if the starter rely ever shorted, but upon my search, there was no readily available DC circuit breakers in that sizing. So I fitted up a 150AMP fuse and fuse holder nice and close to the battery in the boot. If you do the same, ENSURE you ALWAYS have a spare in the vehicle so you don’t ever get caught out!
Here’s a little something I prepared earlier...
Bolted to the boot floor using four high tensile bolts PLUS the provided strap, you don’t want a battery sliding around/spilling in the boot!
Since then, I’ve had a surge of motivation to get lots of loose ends and little things that had bothered me previously (not enough to reduce driveability, but enough to sit in the back of the mind).
I realigned the front end better including grill, headlights, guards and bonnet, it’s no sitting perfect, but MUCH better then previous!
I then went and got myself a more supportive seat that is ADR approved a close match for OEM R34 GTR seats and uses a rotary knob to adjust the seat back vs. A crappy lever style adjuster that a number of aftermarket seats use.
I figured whilst I had the drivers seat out, now would be the time to time to take apart
the interior and fit the BONDS bolt-in roll cage I had here for an S14/S15. Which led to this....
Trial fitting the cage to mark the holes to be drilled...
Relocating the internal wiring harness to allow the cages holes to be drilled....
Always paint the underside of the body where holes have been drilled to avoid rust developing!
Painting the cage prior to installing and fitting protecting foam....
I removed the seatbelts from the rear as well as the seat back, however, due to the nature of the build i.e. still street driven and registered, I didn’t feel the need to remove the sound deadening nor the seat base as although a little heavier, really doesn’t impact on my level of FUN! So this is the result...
I have a track day at Wakefield on the 24th of this month, it’s a Thursday and I’ve got the all clear from work, oh yeah! Fingers crossed that the car performs mechanically as it’s picked up a nice rattle on startup that I’ve put down to one of two things, either the hydraulic lifters or a noisy VCT unit?
Before Wakefield, I’ll be giving the car the full once over and service. Inaddition, I’ll be installing the follow...
- Bosch 040 fuel pump
- DOT 5.1 Brake fluid
- NGK BKR6E-11 spark plugs
Then purchase/make and fit up:
- Z32 AFM and metal intake pipe (Purchased)
- Custom metal airbox to house above
- Greddy Profec boost controller (Purchased)
- Injectors
- Nistune
- Nissan shims to tighten up the OEM LSD